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Does adding water pump lube do any good or is it so much snake oil?
What do you think it is going to lubricate that the anti-freeze mixture doesn't?
The answer to your question is they serve no useful purpose.
Only if you are using plain water with no anti-freeze. In that case a rust inhibitor should also be used.
Antifreeze has lubricating / rust preventative compounds that break down faster than the lifespan of the thermal elements. I have changed a few 4 & v6 water pumps on vehicles that had good service records documented that had a nasty build up of rust around the impeller and cavity. I flush and replace my anti freeze every other year in my good motors and use the left overs for topping off old machinery . I use a water soluble synthic oil on my cold saw , so I add some to my used anti freeze. If you follow the manufactures recommended servicing schedule you should not need anything extra . In most cases , if you feel you need to add something you would probably do better with a good vinegar flush and fresh anti freeze.
Any decent permanent anti-freeze contains water pump lubricating additives. If you change the anti-freeze every couple of years there is no need for any other coolant additives.
At a more fundamental level, one might ask, lubricate what?, since if coolant gets to bearings, then it is leaking & needs pump replacement. I guess you could lubricate 'part' of a non-leaking seal?
My understanding is you are not lubricating bearing you are increasing the ability of to coolant to pass through the pump fins/vanes to reduce wear on the pump fins/vanes or housing.
In the long ago time, you used to haffta add water pump lube. Modern anti-freeze includes water pump lube, I wouldn't mucka round, but what ever pleases you, iff'n it makes you happy, doo itt.
Used it many times. its the greatest product since sliced bread.
You can add sca back in, this is what makes the protective barrier that inhibits corrosion, this is common in diesel engines to replenish them. Antifreeze never goes bad it only becomes contaminated or breaks down the sca package. When at a seminar once on diesels and antifreeze maintenance the instructor had mentioned how it never goes bad and I asked about what needs replenishing in gas engine antifreeze then and he said that just a small doses of the additive we use in the diesels would bring back that in very old antifreeze as long as it's not contaminated of course
When used as thermal transfer fluids aqueous ethylene/propylene glycol solutions undergo a thermal breakdown. The glycol compounds breakdown and form organic acids, most notably glycolic acid. When that happens the coolant becomes overly acidic and also loses it's ability to protect against freezing. When the pH of automotive coolant falls below 7.0 it is quite literally "worn out" and needs to be replaced.
Every once in awhile I will run across a engine that is full of rust no matter how much you flush you will keep getting brown water out of it and no matter what you do the rust comes back... I flush as good as possible and dump a few cans of Max's water pump lube in them it does help with the rust issue... I have never seen it hurt and have seen it help... On older engines It was possible that at one time are another plan water was added instead of good coolant. I have always thought that may start a rust issue that once started could not be reversed are stopped unless some type of rust prevention was add like water pump lube. I don't see were it will hurt and may help...
Drop a piece of cast drop it in vinegar for a few days take it out and see how fast it rust... It will supersize you... I am not sold on it because I did just that... Its starts a reaction that hard to reverse...
I personally have never used water pump lube and feel it's not necessary.
I would not run 100% water with out water pump lube. Permanent anti freeze I figure has it built in. We used Mac's 13, 50-65 years ago in water only vehicles.
The sca package of additives helps bring the ph back to where it should be since our test strips generally reflected that result?
The addition or formation of any buffering agent in the solution will raise the pH. It will neutralize the acids in the solution resulting in a higher pH but it won't reverse the degradation of the glycols. However when you are starting with a "fresh" mix of coolant a pH test is a good qualitative indicator. A pH below 7.0 tells you that SIGNIFICANT glycol degradation has occured in the mix. Once you start adding more buffers to that solution your pH test is telling you nothing about the cumulative magnitude of glycol degradation. All you are doing is raising the pH to help prevent corrosion and the glycol continues to degrade further creating more acids and necessitating additions of more buffers to counteract them. You are extending the service life of the coolant by maintaining a base pH using additional SCA's at the cost of ever increasing glycol degradation. Keep that cycle going long enough and you have some very degraded antifreeze.
Redline WaterWetter (has lube in it) had a following at the dragstrip when I raced. I was always tempted to try a bottle in a tractor ThermoSyphon system.
Do you run water with no antifreeze?
I usually buy 50/50 premix unless I flush the system or replace the radiator.
Water Pump lube want hurt a fudgen thang I am not sure what the big deal is about it... I think I will order a case and start PUt'N it in every thang I work on...
I'll pass on the blinker fluid. My tractor,was made before blinkers were standard equipment . It would be a waste of money on my part.
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