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vent for sump pump discharge

ScottT(OH)

My sump pump drainage system was not set up correctly. The 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe runs outside the house, into the ground, and is connected to the storm sewer. I understand it is supposed to drain into a larger pipe (3 or 4 inches) which would allow an air space and more room. Since there is no air venting in the system, every time the pump operates, an airlock or vacuum is created when the water tries to escape to the street. This results in terribly loud noises around my pump as the system is gasping for air to fill the vacuum. Some plumbers have suggested that I replace the 1 1/2 inch pipe outside my house with the larger 3 or 4 inch pipe. This involves excavation and much expense. I am looking for a cheaper solution. Everything about the 1 1/2 inch pipe I have works, except for the vacuum that is created. I am looking for a product or idea that will allow all the water to get through the pipes, and then allow for air to get in when the pump stops to break the vacuum. Is there such a product or quick fix for this problem?

e-plumber(NY)

I don't know if this is your problem but is there a small hole drilled into the sump pump discharge line, right above the pump? Some pumps that have check valves installed require it. If that's not your problem, I'd say maybe you have a defective or inadequate sump pump for the job.

JOE(PA)

You could drill a small hole (1/8" to 3/16") at the top of the elbow that turns to the ground outside of the house this will give you an air vent. I have done this and no water escapes. You could also place a "T/"Y" in the line and reduce the top leg to 1/2" and extend a pipe up a foot that would vent the line. You could place a "T/"Y" and place a check valve on the top leg this would allow air in but stop water if the line clogs. This is like an air admittance valve. I am not sure that the last one would not have problems with freezing.

ScottT(OH)

My sump pump is brand new and functioning properly. The only problem is the loud noise that happens after the pump has completed its cycle. The noise is happens because the water outside my house is heading to the sewer, but there is no vent for air to get into the line as the water leaves. I have multiple check valves in the system, and part of the problem is that the check valves are vibrating because of the need for air to get into the system to replace the water as it leaves. I don't have a "small hole" in the plumbing. It seems if there was a hole, water would come blasting out of it each time the pump operates. Can you please explain where the hole is supposed to be and what would prevent water from spraying out the hold whenever the pump is on? Thanks!

redwood(CT)

I believe what you are saying is once the pump sends water out the line that after the pump shuts of the water continues to siphon. The water siphoning makes noise as it draws in air from the hole E-plumber described and or, as it drains the pit dry. Is that the case? You may be in a situation with your outlet being low enough where you could set up a gravity drain ending your need for a pump. To do so would require a trench from your basement sup to the storm sewer to lay pipe but you would end up with the most reliable basement drain possible.

JOE(PA)

You put the small hole in to vent it. You place the hole outside of the house where the elbow that turns the pipe to the ground. There is not much pressure if the line is clear. No water comes out of mine but it does empty into a larger pipe. If the line becomes blocked then there would be pressure but without the hole there would be nowhere for the water to go anyway. So if you aim the hole away from the house you will have an emergency bypass if the pipe clogs. I do not see why the pipe would clog since it is relatively clean water. You wanted cheap a hole is cheap. If you do not like the results just replace the fitting of plug the hole.

hj(AZ)

The only way your description makes sense is if the outlet at the street is lower than the pump in the house creating a siphon. If so, then a vacuum vent, which is a fitting not a pipe, at the top of the discharge pipe will stop the action.

LemonPlumber(FL)

i would go with joe's third idea.cut in a tee out side and install a check valve .it would relieve vacuum after pump shuts down.good luck.this check valve could be as small as 1/2 inch spring loaded type.

CraigV(PA)

How would a second check valve outside be any different than the check valve immediately after the pump? Either would open to admit air if subjected to vacuum. I wonder if he's using a sealed ejector lid instead of an 'open' sump lid. If the sump is sealed off, the description he gave of the noise coming from the pump area and the check valve possibly making noise would make sense. The sump contains the largest volume of air in the system and the check valve is responding to the water column attempting to suck that air out of the sump, and the valve would probably oscillate.

JOE(PA)

The check valve would be on the vent line to allow air in when the vacuum occurs and seal when the water is flowing out.

CraigV(PA)

Joe do you mean a check valve or an AAV? If the former, it would have to be installed upside-down, and especially outside, it's a sure bet something will fall or fly in there and clog it.

hj(AZ)

Forget about AAV's, check valves installed backwards, etc. Install a tee with a 1/2" branch connection and screw a 1/2" vacuum vent, available at any good plumbing supply store, into it.

dumberplumber(MD)

can anyone explain to me why he has MULTIPLE checks in this system? you only need the one right at the pump. anyway, i would have to jump on the drill a small hole in the first bend outside the house bandwagon. that should work nicely with any venting issues you have. however, not being able to look at it myself, and wondering what multiple checks are for on a sump pump line makes me concerned there isnt something else going on.

CraigV(PA)

I don't think he said he has multiple check valves. The suggestions have been made to install either a check valve, a vacuum break valve, or drill a vacuum break hole, outside the house in order to admit air from somewhere other than the present check valve just above the pump.

Dutchswede(MI)

Couple thoughts here. First, I’m not sure why multiple check valves, but they can’t be helping. I just went through a silicate issue and found that the check valve was faulty, plus the hole dear the base of the discharge pipe had clogged. These two need to work together. The hole doesn’t shot much water when the pump runs as long as it’s low, but it does allow for the pipe between the pump and check valve to release the potential vacuum, allowing the check valve to do what it needs to do. When working together, the discharge discharges, the pressure behind the check valve releases, and the check valve closes tight (assuming the pipe beyond contains water). No bad noises. In my situation, the discharge pipe started hammering HARD after the pump shut off and gradually became faster and lower amplitude until it finally faded to nothing. Replaced the check valve, drilled the clog out of the bottom vent hole, and serenity was restored. If the system ever worked well, and nothing else changed, this VERY simple fix should restore your sanity. However, i’d Probably plan to get rid of excess check valves. They’re just asking to multiply troubles.