drain pump zanussi

Where is the secondary air pump relay?

Faulty Codes and SES Light

I have a few faulty codes on my car, and the SES light comes on. There are 2 main faults on the system. The engine light can come on whilst driving and the car drives fine, but then after a while it will go into Limp Mode (power reduction).

Now none of these codes existed until I changed the MAF's! got them from the USA and then the car was bombarded with code after code!

Codes Read

I have had the codes read a number of times, and now the car has settled with the following..

170 minimum flow of secondary air (Non safe mode issue?)

58 sensor supply1, master

132 DSC message time out

19 SECONDARY AIR PUMP RELAY (Non safe mode issue?)

58 sensor supply 1, master

26 IGNITION COIL, CYL 8 (Engine safe mode issue?)

128 deviation idle speed

I will change the Cylinder 8 Coil and all the plugs again this evening unless someone can advise otherwise. If someone can tell me the 'Secondary air pump relay' location and part number I will buy that as well and then get the codes reset and read again.

I do not have any CPS errors / O2 sensor or MAF errors. I have only had 1 CPS error ever, and then never returned. I had some Vanos erros but they have all gone as well. I have had misfire errors on cylinders 4 and 8 at different times. I originally thought it was the CPOS sensors, but all the above mentioned errors have not retured again.

When started from cold the car is running very strong, and after a system reset and reset all adaptations the car runs superb. But then after a while could be as short as 1m (if warm) to 100m the car will all of a sudden be down on power. The Engine light can be on aswell before this happens, hence making me believe there are 2 faults. I have driven the car over 1000m like this and it is seriously buggin me now.

Questions

Q1: Would the faulty coil produce a produce a limp mode to be triggered??

Q2: The secondary air pump is only a 'Secondary' thing and does not effect the perfoamce of the car, i.e will not send it into limp mode!

Secondary Air Pump Relay Location

Does anyone have the Bently manual to advise where the secondary Air pump relay is??

Realoem.com

Take a look at www.realoem.com

Or go on to ebay and search for a BMW TIS disk - which you will find invaluable for this kind of question.

Answers

Q1 : Yes. I would change that first and see if you still have a problem.

Q2 : It's to do with emissions control. Low secondary air can be a sign of carbon build up, and can cause the car to do into limp mode. Given the relay fault code, I'd replace that first and cross my fingers.

Relay Details

I have been advised that the relqy has 5 wires and thier colour sequence. I have to remove it before i ask if BMW can provide me with the part no!!!

Does the secondary airflow errors send the car into safe mode as you state

Secondary Air Pump Fuse

I believe my issue is the fuse for the SAP is blown. I replaced the SAP, but it is not coming on. Now I'm on to the fuse. I understand it is under the carpet of the passenger front seat. Does anyone have detailed instructions for removing the seat and getting at the fuse?

Also, is there anything else I should check that maybe easier to deal with than the fuse?

Don't think the seat needs to come out. Fuse 107 is what you are looking for, best I can tell. Have you tested at the relay for the power? If the fuse is dead you will not have power at pin 30 of the relay. There are two more fuses that do things in this system so more info maybe required

Ebox Location

in the ebox behind the dme im 9o% its blue

Seat Removal

the seat is easy to take out first move the seat all the way back remove the plastic trim on the rails of the seat unscrew the two torx bolts them move the seat all the way foward remove the rear trim off the rails remove those torx bolts then nove the seat to a normal position (front to back some where in the middle ) then move the seat up wards till its maxed out with the seat switch. then lift or tilt it foward you will then be able to get to the torx for the seat belt on the right rear of the seat all so you will be able to remove the lock for the seat belt adjuster just push the lock upards fo it unlocks and pull the pin out then you lift or tilt the front of the seat so you can remove the electrical conection sfter that installation is the reverse. fyi this is if your takeing the seat totaly out of the car. i would just undo the torx and lean the backrest up agianst the rearseat so you can get to those fuses

Coil Movement

i would also move coil 8 to another spot to see if the missfire moves before you purchace a new coil

Carpet Access

I attempted to pull up the carpet tonight. I took of the side molding and panel on the console to access the edges of the carpet. Unfortunately, you can really pull it back far enough due to the stiffness of the carpet and the thick foam underneath. I was able to get it up enough and could see the fuse box, but not far enough to access it. It appears the seat does need to come out.

Pump Still Running

Well I finally got the fuse ($6 at the dealer). Took the seat out. Replaced the fuse and low and behold the pump started working. I thought all was great for the last two weeks. Tonight after coming home from work, I pulled in the driveway, shut off the car and found the secondary air pump was still running. Now I can't get the thing to turn off. I eventually pulled the battery cable to get it to shut off. I don't want to go through this routine everyday now of disconnecting the battery every time I park. What's going on here? Is the relay now stuck? Can someone help and tell me where the relay is? Any help is always appreciated. Thanks.

The book says it is under the seat also but the pic looks like the front e box under the pass cab air filter. You were under the seat so you maybe know better. But this looks a little like the e box to me. not a great pic!

Fuse Issue

Pump is no longer running, even at startup. Probably burned up the fuse.....lucky me.

Moisture in Air Pump

Is it really noisy? If you keep blowing a fuse and there are signs of moisture in the air pump you are suppose to replace the one way valve in the vacuum line before the solenoid, so on the throttle body side. Don't understand it can't figure out how this would have any effect but BMW thinks so because they wrote the bulletin. I think they say you have to replace the pump too but my bet a good cleaning and some oil in the bearings would work.

I replaced the pump but not the valve. I know I should have just done it all at once. I'll keep trying......

Relay Part Number

Does anyone know the part number for the relay? I'm having a tough time ordering the part without the number or getting into the car first.

Update - Called bavauto. They just need the color of the relay, not necessarily the part number. If anyone knows the color or number of prongs on this relay, I'd appreciate the help.

Got a relay from Turner Motorsports. Didn't solve my SAP issue, but it's been replaced. I checked the fuse under the seat and it also appears fine. Sailor suggested checking the fuses in the ebox and those were also good. At a loss at this point?

SAP Software Delete

Should I just look for software that will delete the SAP? I don't have to worry about emissions testing in VA just yet.

This. Contact Evolve.

I wouldn't jump to delete the secondary air system just yet just because of what I see happening on my car. If the secondary air system is in some way effecting the performance of the car; maybe circulating too much exhaust gas back to the chambers, or too much air into the exhaust stream to throw the cat codes and trigger your SES, I would fix the issue before thinking of removing it.

Sounds like you have been chasing this for a while.

This is just a suggestion but the only reason I can see the SA system affecting the idle is if the vacuum hose from the intake to the SA valve is leaking or if the valve diaphragm is ruptured and allowing air into the intake that way.

One easy way to check for air leaks is to pull the vacuum line off the valve and put a cheap vacuum gauge on the end. At idle, it should read about 20" Hg (bit of a guess but that is about normal for most stock engines). If it is much lower, the hose is likely leaking.

If the hose is good, leave it off the valve and plug it. If the idle is now good, it is likely the valve diaphragm is leaking.

Secondary Air Valve Replacement

I've searched all the threads and didn't see anything on a DIY for the secondary air valve. The rear nut seems near impossible to take off. If anyone has done this job, I would appreciate any tips or tricks.

Can you please give an update. I think my fuse is bad and am getting ready to replace it but if there's a cheap SAP software delete that would be preferable.

Remove the two bolts holding the tubes. clean the tubes while you are at it. Driverside has a clip for wires that is a bit of a pain but it does come.

Thanks Sailor. I'll give that a try.

One more thing do not try and blow air into the head to free any blockage. The carbon will go to the piston and score your cyl walls. If you start the car with the tube off the exhaust gases may blow the crud out, but don't count on it. I even tried blocking the exhaust to cause more back pressure but that stuff packs pretty well. I was clear for a couple months but it started coming back.