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I have a sump pump in my own house that another company installed when I had my basement waterproofed. I have only seen tethered floats, and float balls. This has me stumped. Is this an electrical sensor, or is there a float inside? I called the company, because it has a lifetime warranty, but they told me it would be a few days before they could come. I really do not want to take this apart if it is not meant to be repaired. Situation- pump turns on and off within a second or two. It does pump a little water when it is running, but of course the pump is starting to overheat. We are getting a lot of rain today so it has been working over time. I installed a tethered float so that the pump does not overheat or burn up and leave me with a flooded basement.
i've been thru 3 of them at my house in a year with that sensor. the sensor gets dirty and starts messing up, either like what you have or does not turn off and overheats, i've had it fail both ways. i returned it and got a pump which has a float on the side that moves up and down, on a fixed rod. you can try to clean that sensor and the metal rods, it bought me a few more months until I got sick of being woke up to it running all night long.
Sms .sorry the link would not load after a minute or two.could you just post the make and model of the pump?
i have seen submersable pumps with a micro switch that is behind a rubber diaphragm. somehow the water pressure will push against the rubber and activate the switch.
I've had one of those too packy. The inlets on the bottom of the diaphram get clogged with debris after about a year or so and then it sticks on and stays running too. On that same pump, I actually got shocked when I went to shake the pump a little to make the debris come off of the switch and the switch was able to make contact with the water and shocked the bejeebers out of me.
Chad please have a gfci breaker or outlet added to your install!
Your pump system doesn't look that new or has been thru a lot of sump waters. My personal issue with sump system is they only cycle about a 4 to 8 inche stroke of water level. The often means that the sump pump sits on the bottom of the pit and pumps when ever there is 10-12 inches of water in the pit that would normally hold 50 plus gallons of water. Hence the pump overheats during times of hard rains and the dreaded flood season. Sump manufacturers won't change. The do offer a "deep cycle kit" along with a tethered float which is adjustable allowing the pit to fill almost 90 percent before the HD pump kicks in and pumps. The oil filled motors and deep waters keep the pump operating at cooler temperature. I don't know about GFI's on pumps. If it trips, you are stuck and perhaps flooded. A sump should have its own 20 amp service outlet.
Why does he need a GFI?
Why does he need a GFI? Simply because it is code in most areas and MUCH safer than not having a fast acting breaker, to protect you. If it were me I would get a NEW pump take the old one out let the company rebuild it and return it to you so you can have a backup pump since they ALL go out after the wholesalers and big box stores are closed on a Sunday evening.
I agree about the GFI who wants a flooded basement due to a tripped GFI?
IT should be a "pressure activated switch". If it is, the "plug" end of the cord will have a small tube sticking out of it. The tube should be pointing downward so no moisture can get into it. IF moisture does get into the tube it "destroys" the switch settings so it either does NOT turn on properly, or will NOT turn off. If it does not turn off, you blow into the tube, and if it does not turn on, you suck it.
Those are the ones with the "air tube". It allows the air to be displaced so the diaphragm can "breathe". If the tube gets moisture in it, the air CANNOT move freely so the diaphragm cannot flex to turn the switch on, OR if it does turn on, the trapped air is under a slight pressure and will turn it off quickly. If the diaphragm cannot move enough air to turn on, then you have to suck on the tube to move the bubble of moisture away from the switch and "suck" the diaghragm in to operate the switch.
I have NEVER had a submersible sump pump which warranted the time and expense of rebuilding it.
Maybe the only thing worse is a freezer, full of meat, in the basement plugged into a GFCI, which trips and you do not realize it for about a week, or you are on vacation as happened to my daughter.
You go ahead and keep installing gfi's in your customers basements and Ill connect mine without it and my customers will stay dry. What was done before Gfi's?
Would you believe that this pump is only a year old. I cleaned the outside of this device, and it seems to be working properly now. But, the water before was starting to steam because of this motor overheating. I do not think I would ever install something with this device. I like the tethered floats instead.
The same thing as asbestos, cars, radon, etc., before Ralph Nader. We lived with it, and very sucessfully at that.
It was a progession of technology. First there were the pumps which had the whole motor in a floating chamber, but they developed leaking seals. Then there were the "trapped air bubble" pressure switches, like this one, but they had the problem with water in the air pressure equalizer hose. Then there were the tethered mercury switch floats, but mercury became a NO-NO, so they went to the mechanical tethered switches, and being mechanical, they also fail.
i use the Little Giant w/ a pressure switch as my 'basic' sump pump...ive never had a call back on one yet.... what is the brand name of yours? is it blue? i like the pressure switch version because if something falls in the crock or if the pump vibrates into the side of the crock it still goes off...i use the pressure switch as a selling point.
The pump was made for the company. It says B-dry. B-smart. No other numbers on it.
looks a lot like this one i had from ridgid. read the reviews on the sensor failing.
Poor design for a float switch, and it is not a good idea for a GFI for a sump pump installation. The protection is needed but the risk of tripping the interrupter leads to more probability of a flooded basement, long before a failed pump system. A sump pump system is often a concealed location for the pump, therefore it is unlikely in most cases to be an issue for degree of hazard.
quote; A sump pump system is often a concealed location for the pump, therefore it is unlikely in most cases to be an issue for degree of hazard. In addition, if done correctly, the pump would be plugged into a "single device" receptacle, so there would not be any place to plug an extension cord, or tool, into, which is when, and why, you need a GFCI in the first place.
I have been on several calls where there was a duplex plug with a seperate appliance pluged in and when both the pump and the other item were running would trip the breaker. I had a customer, who after several floods and being told to unplug their dehumidifier, did not listen. Gotta love the stubbern ones.
He said he "I actually got shocked when", I to Chad/sorry not sms.I felt the need to post the protective measure all should use.Sorry steam.but if life or a little backwater .I leave the electrical failures as my known failure. Electrocution of any person is never pretty and is very stupid when it can easily be avoided!!Where I push for separate alarm circuits.I will gladly flood to reduce terminal failure.No ones city is worth the cost of any soul.
You have just as much chance to get electrocuted with a T.V. Do you have a GFI for that receptacle as Well?
Then it was not "trimmed out" properly, and if the breaker is tripping the two items are NOT compatible with that circuit.
Maybe he does not get TV in the swamps, unless he puts an antenna on an aligator. Or has his coon dog climb a tree with the wire.
Sorry no touch screens that are not gfi controlled and no TV's that work with out remotes!I have a hard time finding an outlet other than purposed utility 20 amp to run my 7.5 amp circular saw .My home was built in 1924.But has been 200 amp pole and through out separate ground controlled.I have more money in ground from roof clamps and tubing than most pay for roofing.I live in the lighting capitol of the world.Here ,I feel safe.I wont freeze when there is no power in November to March.Most of your Tornado's lasted longer than our full Hurricane season five years ago.So I protect from fatal shock .And weather all storms.When doing is not seeing/I will not be blind to the hazard of the flow of electrical current. Any time a plumber should have seen it coming.Where some argue the limited use of gfi.They would not be the plumber who also advises maintaining the fixtures he sell's.My dog eat's larger ones and throws up the bones.Poor damn rescue mut.
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