slurry pump impeller design

Cast Iron Sewer Pipes just started leaking in basement

Cast Iron Sewer Pipes just started leaking in basement

This old house was built in the 50's and has cast iron sewer pipes under the 1st floor (full basement so easy to get to). I need to replace a section of leaking pipe with PVC and I "HOPE" there are adapters to go from this 4inch cast iron pipe (OD) directly to PVC pipe using adapters that fit the end of PVC to the cast iron (without cutting) I don't know if such adapters exist. This photo shows almost the full length of the section I need to replace. This photo shows the North end of the pipe where I'd "like" to pull the cast iron pipe out and replace with PVC pipe. The photo shows the South end of the section and where I'd "like" to just fit PVC with no cutting (preferably)

Replies and Solutions

Not sure about the non cutting part. Will you have to use a hubbed end. If so you might need to invest in a chain cutter or a really good saw saw blade. You can probably rent a chain cutter. Fernco makes rubber fittings to do what I think you have described.

Do you know a plumber that still does Lead? It was leaded like it is the only issue would be dry out the inside of your pipe. Personally I would repair the leaking joint LONG before I cut out the pipe and patched the area. Sorry dude you will be cutting the pipe. Remember shut off the water and drain all of the lines on the sewer line your working on.

Fernco are not legal on sanitary unless they are shielded in my area. They do make an adapter that goes into a no hub band and has female PVC connector

you can use 4 in. Service Weight Cast Iron Hub x 4 in. Sch. 40 PVC Compression Coupling or 2 inch. I have purchased at plumbing supply. I had to replace cast iron drain in mother's basement and these biscuits worked frat.

Easiest and completely ok to use. Cut the cast iron with grinder where it's clean and smooth. Then use 4" hubless (rubber coupling). Use 4" pvc to repair. Rubber coupling WILL stretch over the castiron which is perfectly fine. I smeared castiron surface and inside the hubless with silicone and use 2 ring clamps. Use hangers to support the pipes. Don't skip on hangers.

I don't know your reasoning for pulling pipe apart; that's a lot of work. Much easier to cut it and use code approved shielded transition band for Plas x CI Special Sawzall blades, grinder, or soil pipe ratchet cutters will do the cutting pretty quickly. The ratchet cutters can be rented and will do both cuts in 5-10 minutes without dust- plenty of video walk throughs available showing how to use the tool Support your CI before cutting- it is very heavy. Use sch 40 DWV PVC for replacement and it should supported at 48" oc. and near the ends

I ended up cutting out a 25ft section of 3" cast iron pipe and a 7ft section of 4" pipe and replaced both with CPVC and rubber boots. No more leaks. Now drying out basement with fans. Worked like a charm. Saved thousands. To cut them I used a harbor freight 12A Sawzall and Carbide blades along with Diamond blades (also from HF). It seems the carbide blades cut through faster. That said, I would place a bet that a circular saw with a proper blade would do it even faster.

It is harder to get a circular saw into spots, plus they track when cutting pipe. The Diablo blade and Sawzall does a fine job. I used to use grinder with cut off wheels until the cast iron carbide blades came out.

The cut line spirals around the pipe, if the diameter is to large to cut straight through