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I am installing an ejector pump for a basement bath and I have not seen any specific references to common/best practices when routing pipe for the ejector pump discharge. Does a plumber install the line using the common rules for branch drains? Is it recommended that the horizontal pipe run be pitched to drain on it's own? Should one use long sweeps for bends? In a 40 foot run with 3 90 degree bends, should there be cleanout(s) installed in the line? Happy holidays- I hope everyone is putting their tool bags away for the weekend!
Code requires the pump discharge to enter the gravity drain line at the top of the line with a wye fitting. I would suggest piping vertical straight up if possible then letting it drain horizontally to the tie in, I would also recommend using long sweep fitting were ever possible and clean-outs where accessible. George
There are a lot of wrong ways to pipe in an ejector pump unit; I suggest you research as much as possible before attempting this installation. I'll give you a few hints though to get you started: Do not vent your unit with a mechanical vent, even if the literature says it's fine to do so...you will have a suction problem with the pump. Do not pipe your outlet riser with sections on a 45 incline Do pipe in unions into your drain and vent piping to allow servicing of the pump unit Do make some provision for draining the outlet line when the pump unit fails and requires servicing
quote; Do not vent your unit with a mechanical vent, even if the literature says it's fine to do so...you will have a suction problem with the pump. Do not pipe your outlet riser with sections on a 45 incline Do make some provision for draining the outlet line when the pump unit fails 1. An AAV will NOT cause a suction problem, but WILL cause a fixture drainage problem. 2. ANY incline is okay for the discharge. 3. The slope of a discharge line is not critical, and it can even go uphill if necessary, but sloping downwards is desirable if possible to aid in emptying the line between cycles. 4. Be sure to install a check valve in the discharge line. 5. You may not have to "drain" the discharge line, but do provide a valve to keep the water IN the line, if you have to service the pump or check valve.
hmm, well it has been my experience that ejector pumps will lock up if you try to use a mechanical vent, I wonder what brand you are using Hj?
Thanks guys; I have already installed a new vent to the roof, so I'm set there. I was more curious about the importance of which bends to use and whether to install a cleanout. The check and ball valve is explicitly stated in our code, so that was a no-brainer.
Most manufacturer documentation state that you should be using long bend fittings. A cleanout is always good idea...not that I have seen many piped in.
hj said: 5. You may not have to "drain" the discharge line, but do provide a valve to keep the water IN the line, if you have to service the pump or check valve. hj said: The rubber clamps ARE your unions, and you do not need a gate valve on that installation. I have NEVER used one in a residential installation. They are only USEFUL when there is a long discharge pipe which would be full of water. I also would have connected the pump to the top of the pipe, mainly so that water being used upstairs could NOT flow into the pump if the check valve were malfunctioning. Make up your mind, should we have a valve or not...?
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