8 trash pump

2017 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L Duratec Water Pump starting to leak

Water pump issue

My wife's 2017 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L started not blowing warm air from the the vents. I checked it out it was low of coolant and that fixed the problem. Went back a week or two later and the coolant reservoir was low again. That is when I look at the weep hole for the water pump. It had coolant residue on it so it has just started. No drips on the compressor or in the driveway yet. The vehicle has 125,000 miles on it. The engine runs great. My question is what is the best kit for the job. I am thinking of doing all the chains when I am in there. Not looking forward to it. Can't really afford a new vehicle right now and paying someone thousands to do the job is not in the budget either. I have all the tools and garage to pull it into so I will roll up my sleeves like I usually do and get it done. Just didn't know the best over kit to buy.

Coolant Leakage

If you are sure the coolant is leaking into the engine, stop driving it immediately or you risk replacing the engine as well. Check the oil dipstick to see if the oil appears to be contaminated (milky).

Water pump failure leads to dead engine

I hate being the guy that joins only to have his first post be about needing help, but I’ve been lurking here for the better part of a year and now have a depressing reason to reach out for assistance. This is long, so the summary is 1k miles over warranty, water pump failed without any check...

List of Useful Threads - 3.5L Water pump replacement - Gotchya's

When I have some more time I'll try to add other information, but figured I'd share some of the mistakes/thoughts from replacing the water pump last weekend. BTW....I have a 2013 Limited with a 3.5L Naturally Aspirated First off....I referenced the online video's by Robinson Auto (he did a...

This is little more than I want to do but I can't afford a new vehicle or afford for someone to fix it. It is a crazy design probably wouldn't have bought it if I had known.

OEM parts

I would strongly recommend going with OEM parts as they are not that expensive. I would recommend replacing the timing chain and tensioner too. Mine just had the same issue. When you refill the cooling system you'll use the newer VC-13-G yellow coolant which has replaced orange. It is also supposed to be better for the water pump.

Here was the parts list for my 3.5L EcoBoost (valve cover had to be replaced too)

1DG1Z*8501*D PUMP ASY - WATER

1BL3Z*6268*A BELT/CHAIN - TIMING

1BA5Z*6L266*B TENSIONER - TIMING CHAIN

1XW4Z*6700*AA SEAL ASY - CRANKSHAFT OIL - F

1F5RZ*6A340*B BOLT - FLANGED HEX.

27T4Z*6279*BA BOLT

1FG1Z*6584*B GASKET FG1Z*6584* A GASKET

1AA5Z*9439* BA GASKET - INTAKE MANIFOLD

6AA5Z*9439*A GASKET - INTAKE MANIFOLD

27T4Z*9439*D GASKET - INTAKE MANIFOLD

2W714498*S900 BOLT

1FA5Z*9417*AA GASKET

1AA5Z*9J323*E TUBE ASY

4W714682*S442 NUT

2W712507*S439 BOLT

1AA5Z*6714* A FILTER ASY - OIL

6XO*5W30*QSP MOTORCRAFT SAE 5W-30 API GF-5

1TA *357*SEALANT - SILICONE ZC * 30*A REMOVER - SILICONE

1ZC*31*B CLEANER - METAL SURFACE

1ZC*20*SHAMPOO - ENGINE

1FG1Z*6582*E COVER - CYLINDER HEAD

1W520100*S437 NUT - HEX.

1AA5Z*9E583* A SEAL

Also don't forget the camshaft locking tools!

I got all Ford parts coming. Bought the cam locks and glad I did. It would be hard to do it without it. I got all torn down and cleaned up waiting for parts. I bought all everything I am putting all new chains, tensioners, cam phasers the whole nine yards. I figured go ahead and do it all. It was around $1450 with all the parts. I am saving a lot of money on labor. We have another car my wife can drive thankfully. I love this forum it has really help for pointers and tips. I had no idea of the design of the water pump when we bought the car new. Hopefully this water pump will last longer than 125k miles that I am putting on. What is the correct RTV the OEM suggest TA-32 Windshield Urethane kit. I bought it just wondering what everyone else was using.

I used the black Permatex RTV, seems to work good

Are there 2 chain tensioners on each side? What about replacing the serpentine belt tensioner assembly while you're in there, is that a good idea? Mine's at the dealer awaiting parts, so not sure if they'll cover the chains and the guides.

One tensioner on the bank 1 side of the chain. I checked the belt tensioner and mine seemed fine and there was no binding so I reused it. Belt tensioner shouldn't be hard to replace in the future if needed.

I was wondering also about oil. Did you let oil run out of the drain plug just to get any coolant and brake clean out of there before filling it up with new oil and filter. Since the way it is design it is almost impossible to not get brake clean and coolant in the oil pan. I kept microfiber cloth in the exposed holes. Also how many miles did you wait after you did another oil change after doing the water pump, cam phasers and timing chains.

I shoved rags in the oil pan but water still got in. I filled it with oil after buttoning it all up, turned it on for 10min and then changed it again. Then I drove it for 30min and changed it once more.

This guy? #18

Yes, that's correct.

Is there a reason why you recommend the Motorcraft/Ford parts? I only ask because I recently had the timing chain, phasers, timing guide, VVT solenoids, etc,,, replaced and they didn't use MC/Ford parts. And now the rattle is worse than before (it used to be only at start up and now is all the time).

I haven't had any issues regarding part replacements but would also recommend staying OEM. For one thing, Ford parts carry a 24-month warranty or longer depending on the part.

Thanks. Racking my brain trying to figure out why it's worse after they used the non-Ford parts.

I have had just as many stock Fords parts fail as non Ford parts. Anymore it is a gamble with either.

But Ford does have their warranty going for them

I wonder what happened to the OP and his outcome??????

He was last active here in March so hopefully he is still around.