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6.0 Water Pump---Post your carnage

Post up pictures of damaged/worn 6.0 Water pumps---list the year that the failed came out of.

I am going to replace mine that started to leak out of the weep hole, and on the fence between the Ford factory and bulletproof billet. (supposedly the 2005 and up factory water pumps are redesigned for longer life expectancy) Any body have feedback on the bulletproof waterpump? Is it worth the price?

I replaced mine at 90,000 with a BPD unit

the OEM was fine I just use this truck for work so I pmed the whole cooling system radiator belts idler hoses etc

I got a good price on a bulletproof that I just couldn't pass up.

Haven't put it in yet though.

I was going to go with a bulletproof but didnt want to spend the money on it so i went with a factory ford unit i think my cost was around $100.

The stocker had 85,000 on it and no issues but i figured id replace it as the truck was apart.

I have 285k on my original water pump, soooo its been on my mind for awhile lol.

I am on the fence of what to get if i get another oem for 100$ that takes me to half million km's id say good pump for the price, unfortunately i have larger issues at hand now tho!

OEM stocker replaced when studs were installed at 160k+ no issues.

Thanks for the posts fellas, still on the fence though.

Any body got a picture of a busted 05+ pump?

This is a good subject.

I bet more of them aren't working correctly, but most people would never notice. On the vegistroke forums this has been a hot topic for discussion. The 6.0's have notoriously had poor coolant flow since the vegistroke came out. With that kit, you're relying on coolant flow from the engine to run back to the bed, through the aluminum tubing in the tank and back up to the motor, to heat the oil in the tank. Almost every 6.0 owner with this kit experiences poor flow and poor heating in the tank. Despite the kit using 3/4" lines and the 7.3's using 5/8's, the 7.3s never had this problem. With my setup I always had VERY poor coolant flow. The line going in my tank would be luke warm, and the line coming out would be ambient. To remedy this, a bunch of guys would buy an aux coolant pump to put in line down on the frame to help push hot coolant through. I just had my truck gone through over the winter to do studs/gaskets etc... when it was torn down, I did a new OEM thermostat, and I went with an Alliant water pump. It has metal impeller blades on it, vs. the OEM plastic. I also had a new radiator put in (trans lines were rotted and didn't come out very nicely, and cracked the original). Did a coolant flush, new OEM oil cooler and put it all back together, still using Ford Gold coolant. Wouldn't you know... coolant lines running to the tank in the bed now... HOT going in and HOT coming out. I now have EXCELLENT coolant flow. I also monitored my temps before and after and EOT and ECT remain virtually unchanged, despite the poor flow before. Many people with coolant filters have found black plastic pieces in their filters... parts of the OEM impeller. Others have found they spin on the shaft at times and become useless as well. I couldn't justify going with another plastic OEM unit myself. I'm glad I didn't, now I shouldn't even have to worry about adding that aux coolant pump on mine to get the proper heat for my veggie system.

Your post got me curious....

Apparently Alliant changed the redisigned (2005 up pump) to a newer metal pump as you stated. Looks like a different approach than BPD.

Correct.

The original BPD units were similar in that they were just a metal impeller on an otherwise stock looking pump, but have since changed to a complete billet unit. Overkill is the name of the game with those guys, in the name of reliability. I'll see how this Alliant pump works out. Think I ordered it from XPD so I could have it next day, was around $100 shipped I think. The thing is, without the veggie system I would have just went on driving it like always. I monitor ECT and EOT like a hawk and ECT drops really quick when I coast down hills etc.... I'm not sure if any one part made that big of a difference in heat back to my tank, or the complete combination, but either way it's way better now. Good find with the PDF!

Just to confirm, you are saying that you noticed that your ECT and EOT temperatures drop quicker after the chage, correct?

Not so much EOT.

I guess I should have been more clear. When I'm coasting down a hill or let off of the throttle, ECT seems to peel off very quickly. It might throw cause for concern for some folks as the ECT drops and EOT is still 10* higher... I think it's just the coolant system is way more efficient with all of the new parts than it was before... that and I have that huge 51 gallon tank of a heat sink in the bed. Before ECT and EOT would stay closer together, and they still do when cruising or towing, but when I let off ECT just drops very quickly.... more just notes and observations than anything. Switching from 15w-40 rotella to 5w-40 rotella and archoil 9100 dropped my average EOT 2-3* under all conditions.

Understood, thanks for clarifying.

I agree that the EOT is a function of coolant flow, so I agree. Looking back, I seem to remeber my ECT being lower than what I am seeing now. I thought that the t-stat was bad, so I replaced it---No change. I will see if the metal pump helps. Did you happen to look at you old plastic pump before you tossed it?

tell you what the stamped steel impeller vs the composite or BPD billet impeller looks less efficient IMHO and BPD went with a billet housing because the variance in castings they were getting was unacceptable by there standards and they wouldn't sell rebuilt pumps using the varied quality and dimensions

I don't think they ever sold a stamped steel impeller version ?

I did not and wish I did.

My buddy ended up doing all of the work for me as work just wouldn't allow it. I wish I told him to keep it... I'm not sure how much more "efficient" it really needs to be... my coolant and oil temps stay in check, what more can I ask for? With BPD it seems you pay for over the top reliability, which is great. I just couldn't swing the $ at the time. Too rich for my blood. Correct, another case of my fingers moving faster than my brain. When I said metal impeller, I should have just said billet impeller. They always had that nice billet impeller on there, but it wasn't always a complete billet UNIT. I never knew the reason they got rid of the cast housings with the billet impellers, but you just clarified that for me!

the BPD mimics the OEM impeller design the stamped steel is only capable of the standard typical design due to the metal available to punch / press form the unit from a singe sheet my concern was that the stamped steel was less capable of moving coolant vs even the oem design but if your deltas went unchanged I guess it's a non issue

Considering how often the plastic OEM design disintegrates and parts of it crack and come apart, and also spins on the shaft on occasion... it can't be any worse, that's for sure.

I wonder why some like mine are 100% fine ?

90,000 miles and not a nick

If you've actually looked at it and can tell it's fine, that's good.

I think some guys have pumps falling apart and never notice it. The cooling system is really good on these. Some guys have founds parts of their pumps in their coolant filters and never had any other symptoms. I think Mike (Snake) had this happen.