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anyone use B-dry or All Dry or any others?

sick of water in my basement.

anyone ever use any of the basement waterproofing companies? what did they do? did it work? how much was it?

It ain't cheap.

My wife wanted to get ours done one year and I tried to tell her it was really expensive. She came home a couple days later and said a co-worker's son had a waterproofing business and had given her a coupon...for $500 off. WHAAA??? How expensive is it when they can knock $500 off the final price?

We looked at a house before we bought this one that had one or the other done to the basement.

I asked the homeowners how it was working for them and they said that they hadn't had any problems at all after it was installed.

Do you have a sump pump?

Are your gutters free of debris? When my basement leaks it's normally because my gutters are overflowing. Embarrassed to say it took a whole summer once for me to figure that out.

the old gutters were pretty shoddy, just replaced them, so they are draining well now.

probably going to cut a couple holes in the basement floor this weekend and install sump pumps on the two corners where the water seems to come in. there is no rhyme or reason to the water, it can rain hard for days with no problems, then like today, with just this one day of rain, the basement was full when I got home. spent the entire evening using the shop vac to dry it out.

It's the saturation level of the ground that's the determining factor of when your basement leaks, IMO.

What they do (what I have seen) is not waterproof, they just water haul.

They do basically what you are planning on doing, they saw a gutter system into your floor and channel to a sump pump. They can/will do drain work at the ground level, you are probably more qualified than most of the workers I've met.

What he said....

Other than sawing a gutter ...I've also seen them epoxy / anchor a pre-fab gutter to the floor. Installed just a few inches from the outside walls channeling water to a sump-pump. Its not a fix.... just removing the water before it spreads all over the floor. Just some friendly advice to save money.... install one sump-pump in the floor at what appears to be your lowest point. To install just remove enough concrete thats needed...like 18x18 square and remove / dig all the dirt / fill out below. Get ahold of a good 5 gallon bucket & drill you several rows of 3/8" holes in the sides ...all the way around. Set your bucket in the excavation and back fill with some decent size rock/gravel. This will keep the holes from plugging back with dirt/mud. The depth of the opening should be as deep as your bucket....the top should be flush with the concrete. Mix you up some rockite or other brand concrete patch & fill around the bucket repairing the removed concrete ....finish it off smooth. If a lid is desired ... a square of alumiminum deck plate or steel with a knotch for your wiring & discharge piping will work good. You can even anchor it down if necessary but I'd do it in a manner you could remove it easily. Get a sump pump with a float that rides vertically.... not with a swing type arm or tethered float switch. It should fit nicely in your 5-gallon bucket basin & then just run your pipe outside... getting the discharge away from the house as far as possible or you will be recycling what your wanting to get rid of. Getting it below grade will allow the pump to remove the water under slab before it gets to a level to come out elsewhere. Normally one pump is all thats necessary. I'd just try one at first....and then add another only if needed. Water coming out in multiple areas usualy means its just equalized enough under the concrete to force it out in different spots.

Like the others have said, the companys just install a drain around your wall, that leads to sump hole, it works, untill the electric goes off.

There ain't many builers out there who know how to build a dry basement, and its a shame! In all of the years of building, and all of the houses with basements we have built, never have we had a damp basement. Proper hand placement of drains, below the floor level is key, ground water tension must be broken, before it gets to floor level. I have seen builders just throw the drains around the house, and cover them up with heavy equipment. I have also seen them place the drain tiles with the drain holes up, either way will cause a wet basement. We started digging a basement for a house, a few years back in an older established subdivision. All of the surounding neighbors came by over the next few weeks to let us, and the homeowner know...the basement WILL be wet because of the soil in the area.(thats what their builders told them) All of them had basements and all were wet. Ours is still dry, and will remain that way! We have built 2 basements with springs under them, they remain dry.

Yeap...that's why a Honda 7.5KW generator sits in my garage with a lot of gas...and they I have a water backup rider on my homeowners pol....wish they had just built this house right to begin with...

I've delt with a lot of pumps & sump pumps and Wayne is brand sump pump that I have had good experience with for residential applications.

They even offer battery back-up for power outages.

thanks guys, pretty much what I figured.

JD, I will try one pump this weekend and see if it solves the problem. The water comes in both front corners at about the same rate so if I can get it out before it gets up to that level, it should stay dry or close to it. Our house was built back in the 70's, block basement walls. the water seeps in where the block wall meets the poured floor. I have tried the waterproofing paint, and it helped, but it still seeps in to about a quarter inch deep and slowly spreads across the floor.

There are basically three ways to waterproof a basement:

1) Control ground water. This means ensuring that you have a positive grade away from the foundation. It also means controlling roof runoff which means clean gutters and downspouts that conduct the water away from the foundation. It also means sealing cracks or voids in concrete around the foundation like patios or drives. Keeping the water away from the foundation will positively prevent basement leaks in most cases. 2) Controlling a raising water table. If your basement is leaking through the cold joint between the floor and the walls, it may be that despite your best efforts, the water table under your home is raising during heavy rains. The only way to control this water is to have a series of perforated pipes surrounding the foundation that run into a sump crock and pumping the water out. The sump pump discharge has to be a good ways from the foundation or you'll pump the water back into the earth and back into your basement. 3) Sealing cracks. This can be accomplished in three ways. First, if the crack is not too wide, it can be repaired with a fiberglass mesh tape and epoxy. A ground coat of epoxy is applied to the wall and a fiberglass mesh tape is pressed into the epoxy. Then a couple of finished coats of epoxy are applied over the tape. This usually works well with a small crack. If the crack is somewhat wider, a series of holes can be drilled into the crack, small nipples driven into the holes and epoxy can be injected into these nipples, filling the crack to make the foundation a somewhat homogenious mass again. This will not work in small cracks. Finally, there is the system used by B-Dry. This involves cutting a ditch in the basement floor, riveting and gluing vinyl panels over the crack that extend into the ditch (over the perforated pipe around the wall) and sealing everything up. The panels conduct the water into the sub-slab drainage and into the sump crock. Which method is best? Controlling ground water with a positive grade and good ground cover around the house and keeping your gutters running freely away from the house is the cheapest and most effective way most of the time. Sometimes, crack sealing and sub-slab drainage are the only answers. I'd try the first answer first because it is cheap and usually requires only elbow grease. A couple of other things to consider. First, after a protracted dry spell, the earth shrinks away from the foundation, giving water an entry point. Further, it's baked hard, so the earth won't absorb water rapidly, and you might get an intermittent leak. Second, there is such a thing as the hundred year rain. That's the rain that theoretically happens once every hundred years that no amount of civil engineering can offset. When that happens, no matter what, you're screwed. Control your runoff first. You might get off with nothing more than some hard work. After that, get quotes from contractors who use each waterproofing method. There is a substantial difference in price. Modern technology has improved waterproofing and lowered the cost. Oh, and by the way, B-Dry uses the vinyl panel method. They've been using it since 1957, so it's a proven (if antiquated) technology. It's real expensive, it's outdated but it does work. Look at the cheapest fix first. This I know after 23 years in the home inspection business.

Oh, and if you're putting a pump in a sump crock, use a submersible.

The old, pedestal type pumps are famous for getting a little whip in the drive shaft from the motor to the impeller and beats the bearings out of both the motor and the impeller bowl. I've had great luck with Zoeller submersible pumps which are made right here in Kentucky. They last for years.

Do not go with all-dry.

I have a life time warranty and when I call the national number they say they can't help me. The local guy Garry Money is out of business. So they say my warranty is crap.